LA CAMELIA,

La Camelia is one of those small, unglamorous, out-of-the-way spots that nonetheless enjoys a loyal following -- professors and grad students were prevalent the evening we visited. The restaurant has survived 16 years on the strength of its reputation for carefully prepared dishes and the heartfelt hospitality of co-owners and chefs George and Guylaine Moukhtarian. Indeed, the Moukhtarians offer Middle Eastern meals far beyond the usual hummus (ground chickpea and tahini dip) and falafel (ground chickpeas shaped into balls or patties and deep-fried). Appetizers that you won't get elsewhere around here include "Armenian-pastrami" -- basterma -- ($4.75), salt-cured, thin- sliced and spicy hot, and Armenian string cheese ($4.75), accompanied by olives. We assembled a sampler by ordering as one of our entrées the "Vegetarian's Favorite Delights" ($9.75), which consists of half portions of your choice of four appetizers. Although nearly half the dozen offerings on the menu were kabobs, I'd had some recently, so I searched further. As I recall with smacking-lips, George's kabob marinade is enthusiastic about its garlic and hot pepper. The kabobs range from swordfish (market price) to filet mignon ($12.75), but billed as the "Chef's Pride" is the losh kabob ($10.75) which is ground lamb or sirloin, herbed and spiced. I chose the stuffed pan koufta ($10.75). Carnivores, be advised: this is a must for your life list . . .

Full review.